May 3, 2018

Switching from Reg to Rolled serge

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  • A client came to me last week with a bag full of table cloths and asked me if I could make her some bohemian style gowns out of them. She sent me a photo of the style she was wanting - long bell sleeves, flowy skirt, gathered at the waist, low v-neckline. Easy enough to recreate, using a rectangular table cloth. The table cloth I used was a gorgeous heavy crochet lace with scalloped edges. I didn't want to loose the scallop and I would have felt terrible cutting up this table cloth and not having the design work out. So I needed to make this design as simple as I could with the least amount of cuts. I started out by folding the table cloth in half length-ways - one side would become the front and the other side would become the back. Now, I needed to cut the shaping on the sides, so I folded the fabric in half again, but widthwise - so that I could cut both sides the exact same way. After the neckline was exactly how I wanted it, I serged the edges and then folded them under once and stitched them down. Next came the twill tape ribbon casing. I marked a small line to follow, so that I could sew it on straight. Then I started at the center back and continued all the way around. Love it!!
  • Sometimes when making gowns that have a lot of gathering at the underbust seam (say, a kimono bodice paired with a straight cut skirt or full circle skirt), instead of serging elastic into the seam like I normally do, I'll make a casing with twill tape, and then add my elastic into the casing. This is just a great way to even out your gathers while keeping the seam nice and stretchy (you can even easily adjust the size of the gown, this way). This is what the inside of the gown looks like with the casing over the seam. I stitched it close to the edges on both sides. Here's where I left a gap to thread the elastic through. First cut the elastic in the length you need (the wearers under-bust measurement), and attach a large safety pin to the end. Then, thread the elastic through the casing, and when you get to the end, overlap the ends, and then stitch then together. Here's how the casing looks from the outside.
  • Open up your PDF pattern, and choose the size you want to print, from the layers panel on the left side of the PFD, by hiding all of the sizes except the size you need. Print the pages (if you do not want to print the tutorial, then select just the pages that the pattern is on). Line the pages up according to the template in your tutorial. Trim the edges of each page (I usually just trim two edges and then overlap the pages). Line up your pages. Tape your pages together (if you'd like to save on tape, then just tape where the pattern pieces are). Carefully cut out your pattern pieces.
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